By Anatoli Bulti
Addis Ababa is a growing cultural hub, home not only to people from different parts of Ethiopia but also from across the world. As a country, Ethiopia is steeped in rich traditions and diverse cultures. And with this diversity come a variety of cuisines.
On a side street behind Sheger Building off of Namibia Street in the affluent district of Bole sit several restaurants offering different gastronomic experiences. One has options of trying local favorites like Shiro and Kitfo to Middle Eastern shawarma, pizza, burgers, and Chinese food at a small restaurant aptly named Little China, all at an affordable price. Among the numerous restaurants on that street, a small spot specializing in Caribbean and vegan cuisine stands out.
Shifta Foods is the brainchild of Feben Kassaye, who wanted to create a unique restaurant that incorporated art and dining. The restaurant is co-owned by Feben and MaranataTegegne, bringing together their love for art and food into this unique brand.
Shifta in Amharic translates to rebel, a term that often carries a negative connotation in the conservative Ethiopian society that prioritizes conformity more than individuality. Aside from the attention-grabbing nature of the word, the name for the restaurant was inspired by what people used to refer to Feben; a Shifta for her rebel like behaviors. As a result, the term had always stuck with her. The restaurant opened its doors on January 2019, and ‘Shifta’ fittingly captures the ethos of the brand and the place it is forging in the foodscape of Addis Ababa.
One of the standout features of the restaurant is its interior design. The co-owners expressed that when it came to the interior, they wanted to not contain the art into frames as it is the usual practice with most restaurants but rather make the entire space part of the artwork. The inside of the restaurant is decorated with colorful murals and paintings while vinyl records, posters, and African wood sculptures adorn the walls. The owners state that the interior paintings were created with the help of their artist friends and took about 3 days to complete while renovation of the entire space into what it is today was done over a 3 month period. All the decorations hanging inside the restaurant and the furniture are made of recycled materials.
There aren’t many restaurants specializing in Caribbean cuisine in Addis and Shifta tries to fill that gap by providing a variety of classic Caribbean dishes along with healthy vegan options. Some signature Caribbean dishes include Jerk Chicken, Ox Tail, Goat Curry, and Jerk lamb. While vegan dishes like Jerk Mushroom, Mango Curry, Vegan Burgers as well as signature salads are a staple in the menu. The drink menu offers refreshing juices, beer, cocktails, and traditional alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages like Tela and Birz (honey water).
Shifta is geared towards a niche market, attracting the young and creative bunch of the city, though its doors are open to everyone. It is also a space frequented by ex-pats and tourists for its good food and cozy ambiance. In an overly saturated food market in Addis Ababa, Shifta stands out because it strives to stay ahead of the curve. The Shifta Block parties are a good example of when creativity meets good marketing. Presenting a spin on the classic Sunday brunch, the Shifta Block Party is a one of a kind gathering offering good food coupled with good entertainment and good vibes. This event started in April of 2019, and is executed by setting up tents in front of the restaurant, closing off half of the block hence the designation as a block party. Colorful carpets and mattresses, food and drinks, an exuberant crowd, and a DJ set characterize these Block parties that are gaining steady traction among the city’s party-goers.
But Shifta is more than an eatery but also a lifestyle brand. It has launched a line of accessories and bags at the last block party celebrating its 1st anniversary. The plan is to grow the business by moving to a bigger location expanding its food and drink menu along with it. They also want it to be an event space, hosting different art and music events on a larger scale.
This small but well-utilized space is a testament to what one can achieve through creativity and drive. In a fast-moving business world, while a good business model can make or break an initiative, creativity in how it delivers services makes it stay relevant. As businesses temporarily close or operate at a limited capacity because of the Covid-19 pandemic, the entire world has been forced to adapt by finding ways to do things differently. Shifta has also followed suit, as their dishes are available through the delivery service Deliver Addis allowing its customers to enjoy its delicious dishes from the comfort of their homes.
A few months ago, it would not have been unusual to see a group of friends sitting around at the restaurant spending quality time with each other, having good food, healthy drinks, a carefully curated music playlist playing in the background, and of course, tella. Physical distancing rules instituted to curb the spread of the Coronavirus make us unable to do most of the things we used to do (or do them differently) right now. But once this is all over, we recommend a stop at Shifta be on your to-do list. You deserve it!
